Sunday, March 24, 2013


3/24/13              Dying and Death.  Mazungo, How are you?  And life changes…

DYING & DEATH

The past two weeks have flown by and every time I try to sit down to write I find myself falling asleep at my computer or running off to do necessary errands (i.e. buying toilet paper or box wine, the essentials).

My second week on the wards was difficult and there are two experiences I will remember for the rest of my life.  A 35-year-old man came across the border from Rwanda to our hospital on “death’s doorknob,” as my attending Jerry said, after he looked at him for 5 seconds.  To put this into context of clinical experience, it took me about 10 minutes of speaking to this patient (who had mistakenly come to my chronic care clinic instead going to the emergency department), that he was seriously ill and needed much more that a medication refill or diabetes education.  This also reflects two very important concepts I have learned while practicing medicine here; patients are incredibly stoic and are often poor historians- meaning it is very hard to elicit a detailed story of when they got sick and what they are feeling.   When I asked the frail man in front of me what brought him into clinic today, he simply said that he felt very tired and his belly was “paining.”  Pain means almost ANYTHING here.  It means weakness, numbness, difficulty breathing, anxiety, tingling, fevers, paralysis, coughing etc.  Also, “malaria” is interchangeable for anyone with headaches body aches and/or fevers.  In any case after learning more about Stephen’s history, I realized that he was in liver failure.  Most people here with failing livers have a long history of drinking and have cirrhosis.  Stephen had a drinking history, a severe episode which lasted for 1-2 years, but no signs of cirrhosis (big, taught belly with ‘caput medusa,’ spider angiomas, or gynecomastia- examples some of the classic things you see due to increase in estrogen production in cirrhosis).  After carefully examining his liver, my attending came to the conclusion he had hepatocellular carcinoma- probably from a long history of chronic Hepatitis B (endemic here).  His enlarged liver was rock hard, his belly full of fluid, yet his arms and face were similar to an anorexic. Stephen vomited blood at the basin near my feet, and my resident told me he probably didn’t have much time left...meaning hours to possibly a few weeks (if very lucky).  He was my patient and I spent the morning getting to know him and his brother, so it was my duty to tell him his prognosis. 

It was the first time I have ever had to tell someone they are going to die very soon- perhaps even tonight.  We gave him the option to bring his wife and children to our hospital, or we could give him enough pain medication and he could go home to die in the comfort of his own home.  Perhaps he was in shock, or too much pain, but his reaction was again, one of stoicism. He took a moment to understand what I told him, he looked at his brother, and then he told me he’d like to go home.  He said it was easier for him to cross the border alive, because trying to take a dead body across the border is much more difficult and more expensive.  The whole conversation was surreal and I realized in that moment there’s no perfect preparation to tell someone they are going to die.  There’s only learning through doing.  This was my first time, but definitely not my last.

Later that same evening, I was finishing up my notes for my patients when the Congo refugee camp nurse brought in a mother with her baby for ‘emergency’ medical attention.  Our responsibilities only concern the adult medicine services and there are other local doctors who take care of all the pediatric patients.  We phoned the on-call pediatric doctor, but of course my interest in children motivated me to at least see the child and take its vitals to make sure he was stable.  I asked the mother to sit on the examining bed and I slowly unwrapped the blanket covering her baby.  The minute I saw the baby’s face my stomach jumped into my throat and my only thought was please let this baby have a heartbeat.  His eyes were open but not blinking, his pupils fixed and asymmetric. I listened with my stethoscope, wanting so badly to hear something, to the point I even thought I did for a split second. But then my hand reached down to touch the baby’s hand, and I felt his lukewarm skin and very rigid limbs, I realized he was dead and in rigor mortis.  Complete shock ran through me and I called for my resident to help me confirm. I have never seen a dead baby before. I have had child patients that I was taking care of (both in Zambia and in the US) who passed away during the night and by the next morning they were gone and I only saw the family.  While of course not easy, there was something so horrible and eerie about seeing this dead baby and knowing that the mother had traveled all the way to the hospital with hope that he could be saved.  In that moment I thought that because I’m going into pediatrics, I should be able to handle this. At the same time I wanted to cry.  I took a deep breath, and told the mother that her baby had passed away, covered him in the blanket, and put him in his mother’s arms. After trying to comfort the mother for a few minutes, I was so thankful to my resident who took things over from there because I walked directly to the call room and burst into tears.  It was the most overwhelming experience of my life.

Later that night at dinner, we had a much-needed conversation about the dying patient and death.  Talking about this was as much a cathartic process as it was an education for what is to come.  While I never want to become the physician who is numb to the dying patient, I don’t think it’s humanly possibly to feel that emotional about every patient who dies.  But who knows, perhaps that is how I will always feel.  The resident who was with me was so wonderful, brave, sympathetic and professional – all at the same time- so I asked her if it ever gets easier, or how does it change.  She remarked that it doesn’t get easier, but that over time it becomes less overwhelming.  I believe her, and it makes me wary of what I will see during my residency.  At the same time, her demeanor and expertise during that situation was undeniably sincere and comforting. I only hope to be similar one day.

MAZUNGO, HOW ARE YOU?

All the children here treat us (meaning ‘mazungos’ or white people) like celebrities. Everywhere we go, they say “Mazungo, how are you?” quickly followed by an answer to their own question, “I am fine!”  Other kids also add, “Mazungo, gimme money!”  Some of these kids are literally 2 years old and they probably have no idea what it means but just copy big brother/sister.  We’ve started asking them back for money, to see if they get the joke…mostly they just laugh and run away.

To recap the last few weeks quickly (otherwise this post will be pages and pages):

-        On my one day off last Saturday we went on a 6 mile run up over Hospital Hill (pictured below is the peak with our guide mentioned before, Habati), down to the lake that you see into the distance, and back up to Kisoro.  We walked back the other 6 miles, but it was so beautiful to hike almost at sunset (don’t worry Mom, I went with 3 other girls).


-        FISH!  We’ve been craving fish and ironically despite all the lakes nearby, they don’t have fish swimming in them. Kisoro gets their fish from a lake near Kampala (the capital) so they are brought on a truck to market every Monday and Thursday. Of course the market opens at 9am and the fish are gone by 1pm.  We start work at 8am and if we have lunch its not until 1pm. Luckily one of the local doctor’s wife is amazing and bought us fish, showed us how to clean it (de-fin etc) and we cooked a lovely meal (see below).  It’s called Tilapia, and it similar to what we have in the states as far as texture, but a bit more gamey.


-        Electricity comes and goes here and I’ve just gotten used to it. However our water was out for about 3 days, which really put a damper on things. Especially because it was during my other day off (yesterday…although me and a friend decided to make the most of it and have brunch and wine at the nicest hotel here to make up for our circumstances).  We had to fill up ‘jerry cans’ and lug them to our house, then boil water for drinking (we do this every day), boil water for bucket baths, put water into the toilet to flush, etc. By day 2 all of our dishes were dirty and I really wanted to cook that night instead of eating out, so I made Dad/Chuck proud by using my camping/Boy Scout techniques by making a soapy bucket, a clean water bucket, and an assembly line, and in about 20 minutes all the dishes were clean. Who knew!?  See pic below.


-        Probably the reason I look this happy doing dishes is that I was drinking a Waragi and Stoney.  Waragi is the locally made gin (takes like a sweet vodka) that is seriously strong.  It also comes in these funny packets (see pic below). One of the girls here thought they were bra implants that you get in Victoria Secret bras….haha.




LIFE CHANGES…

-        I celebrated by 32nd birthday last Wednesday and even after a long day on the wards I came home to great friends cooking an incredible meal of spaghetti Bolognese and a very original dessert- fried bananas with nutella and “chocolate ice cream” with cashews.  The ice cream is in quotes because we’re not really sure if it was ice cream. But it tasted amazing!






-        I also found out that I matched at UCSD’s Pediatric Residency program (Rady Children’s Hospital) and will be finally returning to San Diego (at least for 3 years!).  I was so excited as it was my top choice and I can’t wait to come home to the support of my amazing family and friends…Rocky, and the beach. And eventually to introduce Ben to the place where I grew up and to improve our beach volleyball skills so we can dominate at the Thanksgiving tournament.

 
That’s enough for now- I miss you all very much and don’t forget to send me updates on YOU!

Love,

Vanessa

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Day 1-3





3/9/13

I’m settling into my life in Uganda well!  I live with two med student friends- Eman and Masha- in a nice 3 bedroom/1 bath.  We have some serious luxury – running water, a toilet that flushes, gas stove, a working refrigerator, malaria nets over our beds…and the most amazing….HOT WATER.  We swap waking up 30 minutes early to turn on the water heater for our showers, then Eman and I try to do an Insanity Workout in the AM before we go to the wards.  The last 3 days have been “easy” days- 9am-4:30pm.  Tomorrow we start 8am-7pm, so perhaps the AM workouts will become more sporadic. 

Food options are limited here but great for the vegetarian.  Thank god I brought some rolled oats from home. Oats, raisins and 1 tbsp peanut butter with hot water is a hearty breakfast and can last me until 4pm.  We do have a glorious lunch hour every day (this will not happen in the US!) and we take our translators out to lunch at Beans Place. As you can guess from the title, the main entrĂ©e is usually beans with boiled greens.  You get to pick 2 “sides” which are a variety of starches: irish potatoes, matoke (boiled plantains), white rice, or chipati (like fried Naan).  The portions are HUGE and its 1500 schillings which is about $0.60.  We go to this place every day!!  I’ve started taking every other day off (to “deflate” as we joke here) and I just buy a banana from the ladies who sell them on the road.  For dinner we go out to restaurants- they have a nice Indian influence here so lots of curries.  Dinner usually costs $6-8 if you also buy drinks. Lots of beers, gin and whiskey.  Very little wine or vodka.  Most locals drink their homemade alcohols…which can lead to serious intoxication very quickly.  We had an obtunded man admitted today from alcohol poisoning.

The weather is beautiful despite rainy season.  It’s 75-85 degrees and sunny most of the time, humidity like San Diego, except for the crazy rain storms that can last anywhere from 10 minutes to 4 hours.  The trees, vegetation, and flowers are lush and bright green- it makes for a very nice walk to the hospital every day (only 8-10 minutes). 

I’ve been able to see more pediatric patients that I thought – and some CRAZY things.  My first case in the E-Ward (think of a disaster ICU) was a child who refused to walk for the last week, with a 2 mos history of fevers, systemic symptoms, and 2 semi-failed courses of antibiotics.  At first, we thought it was a muscle infection from the way he was describing his pain. However our attending, Jerry, immediately diagnosed the child based on his history and physical exam with Brucellosis, a bacteria we don’t see often in the US.  Its “textbook” timeline is 2 months of “undulating fevers” after which it seeds as arthritis usually in the hip or the sacrum. It can also cause granulomas in the liver or brain (more serious, but rare).  Endemic in the Middle East with the bedoins because they drink raw goat milk, one can contract Brucella by drinking any unpasteurized milk.  My patient comes from a family of farmers and he drinks raw cow milk.  Six months of antibiotics are required to kill the bone infection.

I’ve seen so much amazing pathology (NERD ALERT!).  Today I saw pulmonic stenosis (4/6 systolic, harsh murmur) with secondary tricuspid regurgitation (right heart failure- no left side involvement which is usually the cause of right-heart failure) in a 15 yo girl—something Jerry says we’ll probably never see again in our life.  Perhaps she has congenital pulmonary stenosis or rheumatic heart disease (only 10% of patients will have the right-sided valves of the heart affected- usually it’s the left).  We’ve sent her to a bigger hospital for an ECHO. She desperately needs heart surgery, so we will try to find a sponsor and send her to India (cheap surgery there!) 

My other patient has what looks like amyloidosis presenting as Nephrotic Syndrome (kidney failure)—but usually this disease presents with a cardiomyopathy (heart failure).  My last patient today was a trauma- a 13yo boy who suffered severe 2nd degree burns from boiling water.  His entire groin, left leg front and back, and penis/scrotum and left butt check were burned so his black skin was pink with large bullae everywhere.   The boy was so incredibly stoic as I applied topical ointment to his burns. We ran out of opioids so we gave him the strongest ibuprofen-type of medicine we had, Tylenol, antibiotics, and most importantly, fluids.  Our little hospital has such limited supplied we thankfully transferred him to a burn unit at a larger hospital by our driver, something funded by DGH (Doctors for Global Health).

Tonight is Saturday and it’s “Mandatory Jerry Fun Night,” so we all trudged to dinner at Golden Monkeys.  Food takes literally 2 hours to make after you order. I guess on the good side its fresh and gives us time to get a good buzz going (for me at this altitude = 1 drink).  Nice to have an attending physician who isn’t all business! He supposedly will even go dancing with us.  This is the same guy who “cured himself of lunch” during his intern year because it slowed him down and prevented him from working.   Ah, Jerry. 

3/10/13

Today was better as far as feeling comfortable on the wards.  My new admission was a 14yo female who had 5 days of viral-like symptoms (headache, dizziness, sore throat).  In Uganda there is an unfortunate belief that when your tonsils become very swollen, those tonsils can be the source of your death.  This is called “Gapfura.”  Similarly in our culture, for many generations, people have had their tonsils removed if they had strep throat a few times.  But recently there have been studies which suggest the tonsils are actually much more important than we thought, and a tonsillectomy should be a last resort (i.e. patient must have 5-6 episodes of strep pharyngitis/year to warrant tonsillectomy).  In any case, this patient with a sore throat and enlarged tonsils went to her “local doctor” (she is from the highlands—deep villages, hours walk away), where they put a stick from a tree between her teeth, then with two fingers reach back and squeeze and scrape her tonsils until they “break.”   Sometimes they even try to yank them out.  A) that is PAINFUL (no anesthetics used)  B) Imagine the bacteria on a rural man’s hand, and C)  My patient’s tonsils were bloody, therefore at risk for a super-infection from the bacterial flora of the human mouth (quite dirty!) and from whatever was on this man’s hands.  Luckily they don’t use a metal tool, otherwise tetanus prophylaxis would be necessary.  In any case this poor girl was feverish (102F), tachycardic, orthostatic, and with a horrible headache.  We gave her an IV for fluids and some strong antibiotics.  Hopefully she feels better soon…

Today we hiked “Hospital Hill” (see pics below) with our discovered guide, Habati, a 12 yo local village boy with a soul beyond his years.  He helped show us the best path to take, and for that we bought him a soda.  Many of the children here learn at a young age to ask for money from “mizungos” (white people), often they don’t even know what it means.  Habati did not ask us for money. He just wanted to hang with us.  Definitely a cool kid- I mean check out his white jeans and Timbalands (pic below)!  In Brooklyn he’d be a hipster.  The hike was a good 30 minutes and VERY uphill. Good workout and we rewarded ourselves with a Stoney soda (delicious ginger soda—much more gingery than Ginger Ale) and watching the sunset.

Off to do some reading as I feel as if I know nothing most of the time! I think my doctor friends will sympathize with me on this sentiment… especially being in a foreign hospital with no resources.  Amazing experience and only 3 days in!

Miss you all and lots of love,  
Vanessa
At the equator! From left: Jerry, me, masha, eman, will

The sign that reminds me to turn right to find our house!

Miraculous that these boxes made it intact-- they hold lots of medical supplies-- (Thank you Julie Crosby!) and 50+ binders that we use to do community talks

After a 1 hour rain- floods!  Everyone drives a motorcycle...

Me- first day on wards. Notice hand sanitizer hanging off my pants...we must carry all our own equipment- BP cuffs, thermometers, Pulse-Ox, tongue depressor, alcohol swabs, gloves, masks etc.  
Local kids hanging out with us

Sunset- this is the road we walk along to get to hospital.
Me at top of Hospital Hill, Lake Mutande in background and Congo behind
Sheperds tending to their goats

View of Kisoro Hospital from hospital hill (blue roof, center)

Sunset over Kisoro




Tuesday, March 5, 2013

Hi Friends & Family!

Today I'm off to the southwestern region of Uganda to a small town called Kisoro (see map & picture that my friend took when she went last fall).  I'll be there for 8 weeks!!

Over the first month I will be at Kisoro Hospital on the inpatient wards for both adult and children. I'll be working with a few other 4th year medical students from Einstein, internal medicine residents from Montefiore Hospital, our attending Dr. Gerald Paccione, and of course the local Ugandan staff.  During the second month I'll be traveling from the hospital to all the local villages to perform a public health research project and give community talks on topics such as Neonatal Mortality, Cancer in Women, Nutrition, and Gapfura (I'll explain in a later post-or you can google it!).  My research project will focus on adolescent alcohol consumption patterns and how it relates to sexual relationships & behavior.

Enough academics!  Beyond the medical work I'm excited to travel to a different country, learn about their culture, and have many adventures.  I'll try to post updates weekly-- not quite sure of how well the internet works yet.  So if you're bored at work and you're sick of looking at Facebook or YouTube...check back for updates!  And don't forget to email me your updates...I will have no TV and need entertainment.

Lots of Love,

Vanessa